Balinese Temples: Besakih – The Mother

This is the first entry in a periodic series about the  temples of the “Sacred Balinese Mandala.” Today we begin with the center, the heart, the most revered of all nine temples: Besakih.

Bali is often called the land of 10,000 temples, and while no one actually  has quite an exact count, that’s as good a number as any to work with – considering that every house, village and even many businesses contain temples.

But in addition to these thousands of smaller temples and shrines, there are the nine “biggies” – each an element of the Balinese Mandala Pilgrimage, Six of these temples are called “The Temples of the World” and are especially revered.The central temple of the mandala, both geographically and spiritually, is Pura Besakih “The Mother” temple – the most important temple in all of Bali. This is a HUGE complex – with at least 23 separate temples found inside the precincts. It’s found on the slopes of Gunung Agung – the most sacred and important mountain in Bali.

Besakih is primarily dedicated to Siwa (Shiva), but smaller temples on the site are dedicated to other gods.

Balinese Hindus believe in one supreme being known as “Sanghyang Widi Wasa.” This ultimate godhead is beyond our comprehension, but it manifests as the three main Balinese gods: Bhrama, Wisnu and Siwa, or “the creator,” “the preserver” and “the destroyer.” So Siwa, or Shiva, is “the destroyer.”

It’s always hard for me as a westerner to get my head around the idea that “the destroyer” is beloved and the focus of worship and dedicated temples. Seems like that should be Wisnu (Vishnu), “the preserver.” Isn’t that what you want in a divine being? But in truth most Balinese are “Siwans” meaning their primary focus of worship is Siwa.

Here’s a comfortable, accessible idea about Siwa: Siwa is often depicted with an opened third eye with which he burned away Desire (Kāma). Thus Siwa’s destructive power allows new perception, and the destruction of the chains of maya. Well, I find this comfortable and accessible, I don’t know about you.

It’s possible to walk the mandala pilgrimage “in miniature” around the Besakih complex, but even this “mini-pilgrimage” is no small feat. Besakih is very large and parts of it are kind of steep (being built on the side of a mountain the way that it is).

The “Mandala” temples in the Besakih complex are:

Pura Gelap (Temple of Lightning) representing Iswara in the east.

Pura Kiduling Kreteg (Temple south of the bridge), Brahma, south.

PuraUlun Kulkul (Temple of Origin of the Slit-Gong) Mahadewa, west.

Pura Batu Madeg (Temple of the Standing Stone) Wisnu, north.

Pura Panataran Agung, the central portion, where the whole population
worship, is dedicated to Siwa and multi-colored.

There are three courtyards in most Balinese temples. The inner Courtyard is only open to worshippers who are properly dressed and who bring offerings. The Pedandas conduct the ceremonies here, and no other activity is allowed.The Middle Courtyard is restricted to worshippers, but other ceremonies and activities are allowed here. The Outer Courtyard can be used for a variety of activities, and may (or may not) be open to “non-worshippers.”The entire site is truly beautiful and full of life and energy. It’s as big as a major Egyptian temple like Karnak, but it’s a place of active worship, so the vibration and feeling is truly remarkable.

Of all the smaller temples found at Besakih, there are two that I’m partial to.Near the center of the complex is the ”Pande” temple. The Pande are a special caste of smiths who have a temple at Besakih dedicated to the fire god Agni/Brahma.

And the northern most temple Pura Batu Madeg (Temple of the Standing Stone), representing Wisnu, offering both a wonderful, peaceful mediation spot, a gorgeous evocative temple, and truly remarkable views of both the slopes of sacred mountain Agung and the entire temple complex which spreads out below you.

Here’s a brief video clip of the temple.

And here’s our Flickr slideshow: